Yellow Arrows

  The yellow arrows have been a constant presence on the Camino.  In a random ghost town at 6am, the arrow pointing to the left may be the only indication that you are still walking on the road to Santiago.  Sometimes the arrows are faint, blending into the yellow moss on the trees. Sometimes (lately, since Sarria), they are officially… Read more →

Day Thirteen: 17.6 miles + Birthing Cows

  Today we saw two calves, born just minutes before we walked up, with their umbilical cords attached and the placenta fresh and steaming, in the drizzling rain. We walked through quiet mossy fairy forests. We found new friends, Martha from Atlanta, Marga from Barcelona, Sergio from Lecce. We are staying in the cutest country albergue off the beaten path–no more… Read more →

Washing By Hand

  One of the cool things about Camino has been washing our clothes by hand…every single day.  A lot of places now have washing machines and dryers, but spending €4.50 per day to wash our clothes when we can do it for free seems silly! After a long day of walking, arriving to an albergue means a lot of chores. First,… Read more →

Achilles Heel

  I haven’t mentioned this, but my Achilles’ tendon has been sore and inflamed since Day Two (it’s Sofia writing now, on Day Twelve of El Camino).  At first, as I inquired with other pilgrims about aches and pains, I was assured that my body was simply adjusting to walking so much with so much weight on my back — and… Read more →

Moving Rocks

On our second day of walking, I began to move rocks. Little stones on our path would call to me like magnets wanting to be inside my pockets…to be moved down the Camino in some way. I collect stones at home and put them on my altar (so does Sammy). Sometimes I carry them with me in a pouch throughout… Read more →

Surrender

Today we climbed a mountain, literally. About a kilometer up the road, as we looked down upon lush, verdant hillsides, Sammy’s lower back/hip began to pinch — a lot. Probably sciatica. The great slow down of our already slow pace began. I found my stride yesterday. All the sudden, as I came upon the footsteps of a pilgrim walking in… Read more →

Portals

On the plane ride here, Sammy and I watched a movie called Interstellar, which explores many topics related to space and time travel, the destruction and creation of civilizations, relativity, simultaneous realities, and much more. In any case, as we flew through the sky and the clock ticked 9 hours ahead, we were thinking of our relationship with time and… Read more →

Feet

  We rose at 5 am on our second day of walking. We had slept well, and woke without trouble, after having walked 13.2 miles our first day. On day two, we would walk 17.7 miles – far more than either of us have walked in one day ever. It doesn’t really hit you, what this is, this walking, this journey.… Read more →

Sunrise

 It has been amazing rising with or before the sun. Mostly, it has been out of necessity–after 11am it is unbearably hot, and with about 15 miles per day of walking, starting at 5am is the best way to go. The sun also sets at 10:30pm, so there’s a window between 8-10 to walk, but most of the albergues close… Read more →

L’Orto di Firenze

In Florence we stayed at our friend Vanina’s friend Salvo’s house outside the centro. As we stood on the balcony hanging our clothes to dry, we admired the garden on the terrace below. The neighbor below us was watering his garden and after conversing, invited us down to take some of his tomatoes. He insisted. Downstairs we entered his small apartment… Read more →

Firenze ::: Florence

We met up with our dear friend Vanina, who is from Naples, in Florence. She brought along her amazing friend she met while studying in Paris, Viviane, who is Brazilian. Together we made quite a quartet, moving between languages like water: speaking Italian, Spanish, French and English (Portuguese only came in for a quick cameo). We had some serious adventures… Read more →

Dinner at the Mountain Farmhouse

Sammy’s cousin invited us to join her friends in the mountains for a homemade summer dinner. We had a traditional  Appenino Modenese meal for summer: fresh vegetables from the garden, dipped in salted olive oil and the region’s famous balsamico; locally produced prosciutto crudo, cheeses, and one of my favorite simple specialties – tigelle, a round delicious kind of bread… Read more →