We made it to Portugal! It’s so weird to be in a country neither of us has ever been to where we can get by but definitely don’t speak the language. It’s very different from the way we are able to communicate in Spain and Italy. Our flight from Madrid was delayed and in that process Sofia connected with Daniel… Read more →
Sunset rituals at the lighthouse, the end of Cape Fisterra. Finisterre today Our certificate of making it to Fisterra–the Fisterrana. Sofia’s muscles Married life…hanging clothes. Lunch at Don Percebe–grilled peppers, shrimp w spicy garlic sauce, San Martiño (translation?) Gallego style with potatoes, flan with coffee and walnuts, espresso & herb digestif liqueur. Read more →
Feeling incredulous. We walked the last of our 400km to the end of the earth today. We won’t be waking up and walking anymore. How to process it all?? Fisterra <> Muxía The first views of the ocean below, to a city called Cee. Cee, around a small bay. Our decadent 2 hour… Read more →
Today, I finally felt like we were real pilgrims. What pulls us forward through the misting rain for hours? The Camino has tested us. After a final 3km past Oliveiroa, crossing a beautiful mountain river valley, we arrived at O Logoso / Pensión A Pedra soaked. I don’t know what I expected, but another gross menu peregrino as our only… Read more →
The road to Finisterre is so different from the Camino Frances. No bars every 2km to quench your thirst and coffee / food addiction, and so few pilgrims. Just arrows on walls and pavement, saying turn left here on this deserted curving road. Just ascents, and descents, and forest path and road. Pharmacy in Negreira Read more →
Today’s journey took us a short way through eucalyptus groves from Santiago to Aguapesada, 10km away to a B&B splurge where we have our own room. 88km to Finisterre! We laughed today that walking 8 miles was a “short” easy day. Dinner at Casa Riamonte, halfway to Negreira. Staying here meant we could spend most of the day… Read more →
We have arrived! Our sweet Camino family waited for us slowpokes at the top of the hill Monte Gozo for the final 4k descent into Santiago, walking it together. Martha, who has been walking from St Jean at the border with France, was definitely processing the end of this major journey. Marga, who has walked the Camino in full… Read more →
Today was hard. Emotionally. I threw my walking sticks to the ground and then my backpack and sat in the gravel and said I’m done with this. We are just walking every day, why? This is our honeymoon? We had reserved beds at a private albergue in Ribadiso so we started late (9:20am) & took 2 hours for lunch in… Read more →
The yellow arrows have been a constant presence on the Camino. In a random ghost town at 6am, the arrow pointing to the left may be the only indication that you are still walking on the road to Santiago. Sometimes the arrows are faint, blending into the yellow moss on the trees. Sometimes (lately, since Sarria), they are officially… Read more →
Today we saw two calves, born just minutes before we walked up, with their umbilical cords attached and the placenta fresh and steaming, in the drizzling rain. We walked through quiet mossy fairy forests. We found new friends, Martha from Atlanta, Marga from Barcelona, Sergio from Lecce. We are staying in the cutest country albergue off the beaten path–no more… Read more →
One of the cool things about Camino has been washing our clothes by hand…every single day. A lot of places now have washing machines and dryers, but spending €4.50 per day to wash our clothes when we can do it for free seems silly! After a long day of walking, arriving to an albergue means a lot of chores. First,… Read more →
The clouds today were incredible! All day they graced the blue skies above us. We walked from Sarria to Portomarin–the first part of the journey within the minimum 100k that are required to get the Compstela in Santiago. It was very noticeable that many people began their journey in Sarria today. Fresh faced, many carrying day packs and ostensibly having… Read more →
Today we walked from Triacastela to Sarria. There are two ways to Sarria–the road and the mountain. Of course, as always, we chose the mountain. It was so beautiful!! Tyran from Australia, who walked the Camino and loved this Donativo so much he came back to stay here for a few weeks. He has been helping build… Read more →
We find ourselves in socks and sandals. #mountains #marriage #onemonthanniversary Read more →
O’Cebreiro was so built up as the hardest hill. But it was nothing compared to the day we walked up to Pradela, 2 days earlier, which resulted in an injury and rest day!! (See day 8.) Today was harder, with ups and downs and then a long long down to Triacastela. Downhill is definitely harder on the body and joints… Read more →
We made it to Galicia!! We had Caldo Gallego (greens n potato soup) and Churrasco de Ternera (beef ribs) and actually were some of the first to make it to the albergue in O’Cebreiro! With an incredible view. Yum. Read more →
Today we walked from Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo. It was a long day, but since there were not so many hills we decided to do it. Whew! My feet have never been so tired!! After a 2 hour stop in Ponferrada for a Farmacia to get anti-inflammatory cream, the bank, and our usual second breakfast, we took the road… Read more →
Today we walked from Foncebadón to Molinaseca. It was DOWNhill! And so long. First we took our time at the best albergue ever, Monte Irago in Foncebadón where we met the awesome David from Barcelona. The Cruz de Ferro is an important part of the Camino. It’s an ancient iron cross on a wooden pole, and people… Read more →
Today we were up sooooo early. We walked under the Milky Way from 4:30-5:30 am before it started getting light and the stars went away until tonight. It was so beautiful to be under the stars with the headlamp off, all alone on the Camino while everyone else slept in their albergues. At 5:30am we passed through Santa Catalina de… Read more →
We have begun our 400km walk on the Camino de Santiago. Here we are in León, the night before Day One of the Camino, which was today. We walked 13+ miles and tomorrow the same. As we arrived into León, we both thought about how significant it is to start our journey from a city which holds the name of… Read more →
In Florence we stayed at our friend Vanina’s friend Salvo’s house outside the centro. As we stood on the balcony hanging our clothes to dry, we admired the garden on the terrace below. The neighbor below us was watering his garden and after conversing, invited us down to take some of his tomatoes. He insisted. Downstairs we entered his small apartment… Read more →
Andrea took us to the airport for our final send off!! Read more →
The preparations begin! Read more →
On our way up to Sofia’s uncle’s retirement party in San Jose, we stopped in Big Sur and camped at Limekiln State Park for a night. We had a lovely campsite (#23) near the river and the redwoods trail to the old kilns used to extract limestone in the 1800’s. A lovely night under the stars! At the lime kilns… Read more →