I saw the Mississippi River for the first time today. As we descended, the giant muddy river curved the view from my window. The river looks still and steady and I couldn’t help but stare, wide-eyed, at this body of water I’ve only ever read about in books. It’s something when this happens – when you finally see something that’s been chiseled in your mind all kinds of ways. 
Just before this, I had also set the intention to enjoy as much as possible on this trip (and in life). I don’t want to be guided by disappointment and complaint; is rather find the beauty in all that I can.
So everything was amazing. The river. The landing. The bus driver (Norris) who took us downtown. The magical house we arrived to, with art all over. The blueberry cruiser bicycles thay beckon us to ride them — we rode from our house to the French Quarter and I smiled the whole way; it’s been years since I’ve ridden a bike.
We glided through the dusk and hopped off our bikes when we got to a recommended spot for good, cheap New Orleans style food. We ordered a taster platter with rabbit jambalaya, fried chicken, red beans and rice, creole shrimp and seafood gumbo. Careful not to stuff ourselves, we saved enough room in our bellies to finish up at Café du Monde with decaf cafe au laits and beignets. Heaven.
Our our way to the magical home we are staying in, a guy on the street said what I thought I heard as “Happy Twelfth Night,” and though I wasn’t sure if I hear him correctly, I replied with that phrase. In fact, we arrived in NOLA on the “twelfth” day of Christmas – which begins the Mardi Gras season! Jan 6 the epiphany. This is a night that folks dress up in elaborate costumes and masquerade their way to parties around the city. We had no idea this night existed until today. Everywhere people are eating what they call “King Cake” here which is also whah my Catholic grandma eats for Epifanía: the rosca, which is a circular cake that hides the baby Jesus inside. If you get the slice with a plastic baby Jesus, you host the Epifanía party the following year. In NOLA, you buy the next cake when you get the baby.
One of our lovely hosts, Alita, invited us to come celebrate twelfth night with her at a locals spot, Vaughn’s Lounge.
We learned that there would be no cover charge for those that dress up, and a $20 cover for folks who came sans costume. Mind you, we have no costumes with us and only 4 outfits. But Alita came to the rescue! It just so happens that she has a good chunk of her old vintage regalia in her bedroom now (she used to operate a vintage clothes shop). So, she kindly gave us some costume material and we gussied up the best we could (nowhere near as elaborate as other folks). Sammy sported a surrealist, sequined beanie and I put on a sparkly blazer. I basically looked like a modern-day hipster throwback to the 80’s. Sammy looked like a post-apocalypse biker. Lol 😂😂
Anyway, we had a ton of fun dressing up and want to do that more in LA! We also loved dancing to the badass brass band at the bar. Great first night in NOLA!