Today we climbed a mountain, literally.
About a kilometer up the road, as we looked down upon lush, verdant hillsides, Sammy’s lower back/hip began to pinch — a lot. Probably sciatica. The great slow down of our already slow pace began.
I found my stride yesterday. All the sudden, as I came upon the footsteps of a pilgrim walking in front of me, I gained a speed and a cadence I hadn’t found yet. I was gliding over the Camino. I mimicked the movement of the boy in front of me, both his footsteps and the lightness of his walking sticks. I was like a fish finding water.
The boy turned out to be an Italian named Mattia.
Two days ago he lost a friend.
We walked with him all yesterday. And today.
When Sammy’s hip began to hurt, we thought perhaps we’d turn back. But Mattia insisted that he carry Sammy’s backpack, along with his own. He carried both for ten miles, up and around and down the mountains. He carried Sammy’s bag, through his own grief, and allowed Sammy to walk without the weight of stuff.
Today was a major slow down. It wasn’t easy – it was hard to go slow, especially just after I had found my own stride. But it was a surrender, for all of us. Sammy to pain and injury. Mattia to weight and slowness, although he didn’t seem to mind at all. Me to uncertainty and patience – not knowing if we’d move fast enough to get to where we were going.
This is all I can write for the moment. We finally arrived in a little village in the hills called Vega del Valcarce. It’s the last town before the BIG hill to O’Cebreiro. We happened upon a magical macrobiotic cafe, run by the sweetest women from Andalucia. And tomorrow, we will likely stay here, rest, explore, and surrender some more.
Enjoy some photos of Mattia with Sammy’s pack and his own, me massaging Sammy on the trail with my elbow, the beautiful hills, and the most delicious macriobiotic dinner!
View of Villafranca del Bierzo
Wilderness first aid: Sofia’s elbow
Bar in the tiny town Pradela at the top of the mountain.
